Reality Tour, South America: Tren del Vino

I must admit I’ve never been much of a train person …it brings me back to family vacations when my three children were toddlers. My husband and I — thinking a train journey would be fun for the kids (or at the very least lull them into a nap) – would opt for a journey through the White Mountains of New Hampshire or the cranberry bogs of Cape Cod. It was never pretty. Sure, they were excited…especially when the whistle blasted and the first tug of the engine jerked us out of the After that, the inevitable, “Are we there yet?”. Try explaining that there is no “end destination” to 5, 4 and 2 year old children! It’s just a ride, I’d tell them. No, not like Disney. They were clearly not amused.

But with my kids back home in Rhode Island thousands of miles from Chile’s Colchagua Valley, I am free to enjoy the relaxed rhythm of a train journey without the whining. Almost immediately, a stream of young ladies comes through our car to distribute wine glasses for our tasting of rosé, white and red wines followed by cubes of cheese and fresh fruit on skewers to cleanse the palate I presume. I quickly find out that my traveling companion is more partial to sweet rosé wine while I prefer a full-bodied red. We drink them all, of course! Next, warm empanadas nestled in a large woven basket are handed out—yum! These small fried pastries with fillings like ground beef, cheese, onions and sometimes bits of egg and olive—watch the pit!—are a Chilean staple. While we savor our munchies and swirl our wine, two gentleman wearing what appear to be sombreros serenade us; one plays the guitar and they both sing their way down the aisle of our car.

A nice feature of this vintage train is that the windows can be opened to let in a nice breeze.  My nerves, however, are beginning to fray watching Debbie stick her head out to catch the perfect photo of the train’s locomotive engine up ahead. Finally, a branch grazes her cheek and she wisely pulls her head back inside. I guess it’s my motherly instincts surfacing (to clarify, though, I am not old enough to be her mother!) Next thing I know, Debbie–who clearly enjoys trains–is pulling me through the sliding doors that connect the cars. I find myself thrust into that loud, rocking, open area where I am certain one sharp turn could land us both on the tracks! All for the sake of a photo!

Two hours later the train pulls into Santa Cruz station. Passengers spill from the cars to watch a short, lively performance. Colorful musicians accompany a man dressed in a poncho and black hat who is doing his best to woo a maiden in a swirling dress.  Even our own Maggie gets pulled into the action and does a fine job dancing the traditional cueca!

and board a motor coach bound for a luncheon and tour at the Viña (means vineyard) Santa Cruz outside the village of Lolol.

Upon arriving, our group contemplates–and conquers–the rather steep hill that leads to the glass-sided restaurant overlooking the steep hills surrounding both sides of the valley. Some opt to take a nice slow pace up the hill’s steep incline while others take the offer of a ride in a small pick up whick turns out to be a thrill ride all its own. Debbie and I watch as the driver backs up a few hundred yards, revs the engine, and guns it up the hill. The small engine strains against the incline but safely deposits our passengers at the top.

However you get to the top, the view is worth the effort! We lunch on grilled meat (that was cooked nearby over an open fire) accompanied by colorful salads and regional side dishes.

Next, we tour the mansion that houses the winery but to be honest the food and wine has made my attention wander and I don’t remember much about what was discussed—sorry!

What I do remember is Max telling me that the owner of Santa Cruz vineyard is a big proponent of Chilean culture which probably explains the curious, mock indigenous village that we get to by boarding an aerial tram – a “time machine” that floats our group to  the top of Chaman Hill.

Here we tour replicas of three dwellings built by indigenous tribes:  Mapuche from Chile’s south; Aymará from the north and Easter Islanders. In each dwelling there are displays of clothing, jewelry, domestic tools and other objects to bring to life that distinct culture. Debbie gets a bit too close for comfort to a llama (pronounced “yama”) but we get the photo before he nips her. Before making our descent, I ask Max why the entrance to the Easter Island dwelling, which resembles an upside down canoe, is proportioned for a 5-year old. “Home security system,” he tells me. Intruders entering on their knees are not in the best position to attack.

I am not sure anything could top today.

-Melissa

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posted by Melissa McKee

Collette Vacations

Tags: Chile, Food, Reality Tour, South America, Winery

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